Day 2 Marhi to Keylong 80Km

From Manali to Rohtang: A Story of Grit and a Grimy Grin

The selfie tells it all. As my friend Parth snapped the photo, a wide grin plastered on his face, I couldn’t help but feel a little self-conscious. While he was dutifully brushing, I was doing a rather pathetic impression of it, miming a routine I hadn’t been able to perform in days. We’d left my toothbrush behind in a Manali hotel, and for seven days, a new one was nowhere to be found. It was a small but persistent nuisance—just one of many challenges on this epic journey.

The Climb: Battling the Wind

Day two dawned with a dramatic flourish of heavy rain and powerful winds. A hearty breakfast in the cool mountain air gave me the fuel I needed for the day’s main event: a 17-kilometer climb to Rohtang La. I was ready for a challenge, and the mountains delivered. The wind was a relentless headwind, pushing back against every single pedal stroke. Breathing became a conscious effort as I steadily gained altitude in the light rain and thick fog. My body heat was the only thing keeping me warm, and when I finally stopped for a moment to catch my breath, the biting cold hit me with full force.

I navigated a tricky water crossing, managing to stay mostly dry, and pushed on. By midday, I had only covered 10 kilometers. The physical toll was immense, but the promise of the descent ahead kept me motivated.

The Descent: A Test of Skill

The descent from Rohtang Pass was everything I had hoped for. The initial stretch was an exhilarating rush, with my bike picking up speed as I flew down the paved road. The easy part, however, ended quickly. The smooth tarmac gave way to a gauntlet of muddy potholes and slick pebbles.

I was now cycling parallel to a gushing stream, and this was where my true cycling skills were put to the test. The path was a mess of steep slopes, mud, and flowing water, all while I had to carefully manage my speed with limited braking. I was reminded of a piece of advice from a Manali-based cyclist: “Don’t overdo it with the brakes on the way down.” I had almost forgotten it, but it was now a matter of survival.

Pushing On: Beyond the Goal

In what felt like no time at all, I reached Khoksar, having covered 30 kilometers from my starting point. Our planned stop was Sissu, but with two hours left before our 4 p.m. cutoff, we decided to push on. Our new target was Keylong, a challenging 80 kilometers away, but with fewer uphills, we felt it was within reach.

The path to Keylong was a wild mix of extremes. My cycle touched a breathtaking speed of 68.7 km/h on a downhill stretch, only to slow to a grueling 4 km/h on an equally tough uphill. By the time we finally reached our guesthouse in Keylong, the day was done, but the adventure wasn’t. After two days with no signal, we finally found a mobile network and immediately began the struggle to connect to the internet, eager to share the incredible photos we had captured.

This day was a testament to the rewards of travel—it’s not just about the destination, but about discovering your own hidden strength and potential along the way.

This piece is based on the experiences of Alok Brahmbhatt, as told to Jainam Mehta.